I began researching the trail and discovered you have to apply to the State Park for permits to camp at Kalalau Beach or day hike beyond Hanakapia Stream, which is 2.5 miles from the trailhead at Ke’e Beach. I learned the hard way that the camping permits are generally snapped up as they become available (one year in advance). If you want to experience the total Kalalau adventure and camp out, be forewarned it is requisite to apply about a year before you depart.
The brighter news was that the day passes are unlimited and don’t cost anything (although it is only $10 per night per person to camp), but you will need to fill out an application and share a photocopy of a picture ID, such as a driver’s license. I completed the application process for my brother-in-law, Jeff and myself. Our families would congregate on
Both of our families resided at condos in the delightful south shore
Kim and I at Brennecke’s Beach Broiler, Poipu, Kauai
Desiring to maximize available daylight, Jeff and I departed Poipu at 4:30AM to make the hour-and-a-half drive to the Kalalau trailhead. We reached the starting point as planned at 6AM. Our itinerary was to go as far as allowed with our day hike permits ---
Warmed by the day’s first light, we trudged the first mile to the splendid Ke’e Overlook, one of the premiere vantage points on the trail. This initial section has a respectful elevation gain (about 500 feet) and is quite rocky. The second leg takes you to
A pivotal concern of this trail is crossing Hanakapia Stream. One of the alluring nuances of
Hiking towards paradise…
It is easy to see why Hanakapia Beach is a popular daytrip destination. A pristine beach nestled in a glorious setting, its allure was reinforced by the chatter of several folks plunging into its dangerous currents as we climbed out of the valley. Hiking out of Hanakapia is a steep endeavor with many switchbacks, and the time requirement allowed others to reach the beach and dive in despite our early start.
The rise was exceptionally beautiful and we became acquainted with the majesty of how every time you round a pali, you were presented with another new valley. Each valley was unique and a treat for the senses. There are four valleys between Ke’e Beach and Hanakoa and it is remarkable how they vary. Hanakapia was the only valley with a bona fide beach and the rest are “hanging valleys”. Over the eons, erosion has caused the entire base of these volcanic mountains to tumble into the sea…leaving a valley suddenly appended by steep cliffs.
I would not have been terribly surprised to glimpse a dinosaur in the prehistoric surroundings. Every valley seemed to present us with the grandeur of nearly mile-high peaks smothered by a canopy of lush tropical vegetation, dropping precipitously to the ocean. It is these surroundings that have made Kauai the location for a multitude of movies…including “
Pressing on, we attained the highest elevation of 850 feet, which afforded another terrific panorama. By this time, however, we were disappointed by the whir of helicopters and numerous noisy power boats plying the waters…which seemed an unearned intrusion given our intensive physical investment to enjoy this landscape. Salving our wounds were clusters of kayak tours, making a similar muscular effort to enjoy the environs with no noisy intrusion.
Around midday we reached Hanakoa Valley
We sprawled out upon rocks in the middle of Hanakoa Stream to enjoy lunch and refill our water bottles. Though just a daytrip, we were carefully prepared to treat stream water with chemicals and a filtered hand pump to eliminate any leptospirosis, a potentially fatal bacteria that thrives in the waterways here. This nemesis persists throughout the trail and you need to be properly equipped before attempting Kalalau.
The return was arduous. Typical of Hawaiian weather, we experienced a ping-pong match between rain and sunshine. The rain made the trail very slick, slowing our progress. As you approach Hanakoa from Ke’e Beach the trail transforms to pure dirt, and when a downpour is added this equals loose mud. At one point Jeff tramped his foot down and the trail dissolved beneath his imprint. He went down hard, although I was relieved how he seemed firmly planted and in no danger of continuing on downward into the ocean. When he arose, his knee was a grotesque combination of red blood and the red dirt for which Hawaii
Please stay on the trail!
There were more tumbles before we finally concluded the endeavor. As mentioned at the beginning of our hike, the trail gets rocky nearing Ke’e Beach and when slick with rain it is a real recipe for disaster. But once we had crossed back over Hanakapia Stream, day-trippers trotting the opposite direction constantly greeted us. There was no dismissing the pride I felt fielding questions from each encounter, for now I was a triumphantly returning explorer who could supply knowledgeable answers (bearing news of these uncharted paths like Captain Cooke!). For a while I was amazed that virtually all the day-trippers were only in swimsuits and sandals. I was thinking how crazy they were for attempting this trek so unprepared, until I realized this was myself five years ago!
My return to Kauai was a defining experience. I relished hiking Kalalau and will be rewarded with a lifetime of memories. But the deeper experience was learning about the trampling of Hawaiian culture. Actually, the lesson was recognizing how oblivious I had been to this tragedy and realizing that understanding other people and places requires effort and humility. In fact, I am uncertain whether I can claim to really know any culture beyond my own, but through serendipity and the additional years I gained through diabetic research I had the opportunity to grasp how broad the spectrum of diversity within our world is.
Don’t let diabetes limit you
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