Once again the main breakfast ingredient was baguette, but next to the plates of sliced bread were bowls filled with small, hard boiled eggs that were quite colorful. I was unfamiliar with the markings of these eggs and asked what type of bird they came from. I’m not sure if they followed the question I was posing, but one gentleman suggested something sounding like “cayenne” and they informed me this was the fowl we had consumed at dinner (they had called it “tiny chicken” for me last night).
Morning was awesome here because under clear skies you realized what stunning views were available. The warmth of the sun felt wonderful and I returned to Cap Noir in hopes of checking out the trail a bit more. A more opportune time to be hiking, the parking lot was much fuller than yesterday – there was even a lunch wagon vending food up here.
I started down the trail while the views were crystal clear, but recognizing I had just taken my last shower before spending the next couple of days heading home I didn’t venture far. Managed a few pictures and truly encourage you to press on if you have the opportunity – what I saw was spectacular despite not meriting any mention in the guide book. One may only conclude the views the guide book encourages pursuit of are stupendous!
Made one last switchback descent back to the N1 and zipped into Saint-Denis, where I would idle away my few remaining hours in paradise. It made for a nice welcome to receive another kind gesture upon entering a pay parking lot to stow my wheels for the final romp. A guy exiting stopped and jumped out of his car to share the ticket he had purchased, with another hour remaining. I thanked the gentlemen before walking back over to the best Western to get some coins – that seemed to be the only thing the meters accepted and I would need to purchase additional time after the free hour was up.
During my bonus hour or parking time I strolled downtown past some structures the guide book described as “architectural heirlooms”. A few were interesting but nothing distinctive really caught my eye. The best part of this walk was stumbling upon a street limited to pedestrian traffic and realizing it was Grand Marche, the retail cluster Jeff had been in search of during his final afternoon. Since the time on my parking ticket was ticking away, I abandoned the area with intentions to return later for some gift shopping.
After plugging enough coins in for a ticket sufficient to see me through, I headed west. I was on a loose schedule and with time to spare it seemed a visit to Notre-Dame de la Deliverance was in order. Why visit another church? I had to see St. Expédit.
If you weren’t impressed with Virgin Mary of the Parasol, allow me to introduce you to the astonishing legend of St. Expédit --- promise I’ll do it quickly! The precise origins of this questionable saint are unclear, though there does seem to be a direct association with the word EXPEDITE being stamped on a mailed package. One attribution is that he was created by a woman as an expression of gratitude for having her prayers speedily answered to be returned to Reunion. This creator is purported to have raised the first statue to the saint in 1931.
Whatever the origin, devotion to this home-made saint grew, much to the disdain of the Catholic Church. I learned the skinny is that the church would prefer to ditch St. Expédit, but fear alienating his faithful. He apparently maintains a following of folks seeking a quick resolution to their ills, though his reputation has been tainted by hints of voodoo creeping into the legacy. In addition to the usual devotions presented at his statue at Notre-Dame de la Deliverance, rumors abound of dolls skewered with pins being tossed at the saint’s feet.
This was something I needed to check out, so I walked across town to the church. It is easy to identify the church, colorful and sitting prominently on a hill. An easy walk of fifteen minutes found me at the doorstep and in I went. After my bad luck with other religious icons on the island, I was dismayed upon entering the church and after scrutinizing five statues, determining none were the saint I sought.
Fortunately I persisted and checked out the other side of the church (meaning the right side as you are facing it). On this side I discovered the elusive saint, but oddly enough, he was clad like a Roman soldier. Struck me as unusual attire for a saint!
Although they weren’t conducting a mass, quite a few people were inside the church and I was stunned that no less than three ladies stood in front of St. Expédit reciting incantations. There were a ton of lit candles and flowers surrounding the statue (no dolls engorged with pins and needles, however), lending a sad air of reverence to the scene. A sister sat at a small table beside the saint, further compromising my efforts to get photographic evidence without offending anyone. Seems silly to worry about injuring anyone over something which common sense dictates is ludicrous, but it was clear he was being taken seriously.
I palmed my camera after switching it on and surreptitiously hoisted it out of my pocket to snap off a couple shots by just holding the camera at my side. Since I hadn’t even looked through the view finder, it was fittingly miraculous that I captured the icon on film.
Walked back across town to Grand Marche after St. Expédit and checked out a few souvenir stores. This was fortunate because I had almost forgotten to score the requisite tacky magnet from Reunion! Picked up one shaped like the island and checked that off the to-do list. Got a bit disoriented in Grand Marche and wound up needing to head for the sea to find my way back.
No worries as I had plenty of time and my escape route offered a lovely walk along the ocean with a return to La Barachois. Serendipity returned me to the diner strip so I capitalized on the opportunity for a farewell sandwich from my favorite eatery. Managed to place my order for a steak panini and bottle of water without the waitress blinking, and when she tossed a line of French back I simply responded “ketchup” without understanding anything she said. My first flawless restaurant experience and it was time to leave!
Took my sweet time savoring this last meal, and despite the clouds beginning to move in the temperatures remained idyllic. As I watched folks passing by it occurred to me that most were French tourists. Seems I experienced French culture much more deeply than Reunionnais across the visit, but that was still a positive and no reason for regret.
Walked about a bit after lunch, then it was back to the airport to turn in the rental wheels and bid farewell. Playing the role of goodwill ambassador I donated the hiking pole I had purchased for the big run to the guy who inspected my car. If nothing else, I am sure my excursion vastly improved US- Reunionnais relations!
Unable to hike any more, I headed for home…
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